PCT Pt 3: Northern California

Jumping ahead on the trail due to the wildfires gave us a good opportunity to see the stark differences between the southern end of the Cascades with that of the range further north. The chipmunks that we had become accustomed to seeing scurrying around the trail were gone, in their stead we found lizards. A thick layer of deciduous leaves, littered the forest floor, indicating more diversity in the canopy than the conifers we were used to. And we saw less people each day (about 5) and generally far more wildlife, from bears to rattlesnakes to salt crazed deer.

Exposed

Since we skipped the Klamath and Marble Mountains, the crux of this region for us was hiking through the area burned by the Dixie fire. As California’s largest fire on record, at 963,309 acres, it covered an area that was multiple days worth of travel on the trail. In such an exposed area with minimal shade, we were nervous that Enedina would be at risk of overheating. We debated different strategies, whether we should skip ahead or if we could just get by with spraying her shirt occasionally and drinking ample water.

After resupplying at Burney Falls State Park, we checked the weather and noticed that there were clouds and storms forecasted a few days ahead, right in line with when we’d be traveling through the burn scars. The trail from there to Old Station was the flattest we’d seen yet on the trail, so we tried to take advantage and set ourselves up well. While the terrain was flat, we’d come across other difficulties that would make that first day out of Burney Falls one of our hardest yet.

The Hat Creek Fire passed through the area in 2009 and the forest was still undergoing the early stages of succession, meaning some trees had come up, but they were not yet tall enough to provide much shade. Lava rocks made up much of the trail and we found water to be scarce, present only every ~10 miles. As the day wore on and the sun rose higher, we baked in the 87 degree heat. We shaded Din’s legs with diaper liners pinned to the pack and made sure we had enough water. There were a couple times I turned to check on Alana, finding her face fully flushed and holding a look that was devoid of all energy. I would take her hat off, grab my water bottle and dump it’s meager, precious contents on her head. Meanwhile our cooling strategy for Din seemed to work as she babbled and bounced about as normal, oblivious to the heat. Towards the end of the day, we came upon a water cache and spent a good time rehydrating. Carrying on into the twilight, we ended up hiking 27.5 miles, our longest yet, camping near an overlook with a view of Shasta to the north.

That day would turn out to be far worse than anything we would encounter later on. The next day cooled off and then the clouds arrived. We ended up hiking through the burn, worrying more about staying dry and warm than overheating. The contrasts in the forests among the burnt standing trees and the understory was aesthetically pleasing and ended up making this part one of our favorites of the region.

End of day

Din became more comfortable in the pack later in the day and there were a few days we found ourselves racing sunset with her still mostly content. However, there were some days she was fussing and we still had to continue on, either out of desire to set ourselves up or there not being any water and/or campsites nearby. In these situations, I end up carrying her in my arms instead of trying to calm her down in the pack. She stops crying and fussing immediately and becomes very excited. We walk down the trail mimicking each others noises, waving at random things and I try to make her laugh. The frustration I had moments ago when she was in the pack disappears, replaced with pure joy. They’re possibly my favorite moments on trail and sometimes I wish we could hike the whole trail this way. So far, the farthest I’ve managed is 5.5 miles. Maybe by the desert my arms will be strong enough.

Into the High Country

Ahead of us lies the Sierras, the hardest part of the trail due to the large elevation changes, tougher climate, swollen rivers and snow field traverses, among other things. Everything that we have done so far has been to put us in a good position for this point, in terms of physical stamina and strength as well as timing with regards to seasons. With a fall that has already had a large rainfall event from the tropical storm and snowfall nearing double digits from another, we figure anything is possible weather wise. We remain well positioned and will be picking up our cold weather gear in Kennedy Meadows North. We will be prepared for cold weather and will be crossing our fingers that it is not an early winter.

After 2.5 months and some 1,200 miles, with inadequate rest the norm, we are weary of the trail and uncertain about how far we’ll go. For now, our spirits are buoyed by the inspiration that others are drawing from our experience and the grandeur waiting for us in the next section. Into the mountains we go.

Miscellaneous

-There have been multiple Germans who have been very befuddled after hearing that we decided not to go to the northern terminus, hiking the same 30 miles twice. The reactions have been nearly identical and they do not seem to comprehend such a strategy. We are still happy with our choice and would do the same again if we weren’t able to enter from Canada like before. The post at the terminus is arbitrary, the journey in between is what gives it meaning. For the same reason, we also do not assign any higher meaning to the southern terminus at the Mexican border.

-We have become somewhat of local celebrities on the trail. People ask to take a picture of us daily and we are often approached by people who’ve heard of us that we’ve never met.

-Since discovering I’ve lost 20 lbs (now up to 25), I’ve taken to eating as much as possible. As a result, I’ve taken on the hobby of sampling milkshakes in town. So far, Burney Falls State Park has the best milkshakes (surprisingly), with Bert’s Diner in South Lake Tahoe a close runner up. I had the blackberry.

-Bert’s Diner was by far the best food we’ve had on trail.

-There are significantly less stinging insects flying around, which has been a big relief.

-Bodies of water swam-5

-Nights with more than 3 hours of continuous sleep: 0

PCT SOBO 2023

PCT Pt. 1 Washington

PCT Pt 2: Oregon

PCT Pt. 3 Northern California

PCT Pt. 4 The Sierras